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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:00 am    Post subject: 55 Tank Remodel Reply with quote

If you can't tell from my other threads in this forum, I'm planning to remodel my 55 softie/lps tank into a stony tank (mostly SPS and a few LPS). So, I figure it'll be more practical to start a new thread on the actual tank rebuild.

The new and better 55 will be as follows:

Tank:
48" long stock 55. I'm buying a new 55 tank to replace my old once since the current tank has a few minor scratches and a haze in the glass I can't remove (I contribute this to poor quality ro/di water I bought. Now, I have my own unit). I will paint the back of the tank black. I will pick up the new tank this weekend.

Lighting:
2x175watt 14K SE MH with 130 watts of 50/50 PC. The bulbs are driven on a magnetic ballast. and everything has been retrofitted into my existing canopy with a few modifications (raised the height of the canopy). I will later build a new canopy when I visit the parents next. I plan to run the MH 6-8 hours a day, and will run the PC before and after the halides to have a 12 hour photoperiod.

Protein Skimmer:
I just ordered the ASM G2 protein skimmer from www.asmskimmer.com. I'm getting the recirculating modification and will use a feed pump with an adjustable flow rate so I only run 2-3x the tank volume through the skimmer. The G2 comes with the Sedra 3500 pump, which doesn't use much electricty and will recirculate 350 gph through the skimmer body. I'm excited to finally get a good working skimmer. I'm also doing the gate-valve modification to make fine-tuning the skimmer easier in order to produce a wet skimmate.

Live Rock and Sanbed:
Barebottoms are for spanking, not reefing, so I will have a SSB. Laugh I'm replacing my current 40lb.cc/20lb. sand substrate with a shallow sandbed of 1.5"-2" of sugar-grain sand. I will look for Southdown (or it's equivalent) at Home Depot, but I hear it's not available up here. I will seed it with my current substrate. Also, I plan on sifting through my substrate as I remove it from my current tank to harvest all the beneficial critters. I presently have approximately 60 lbs of LR in my tank, and I will transfer that to the new setup. I plan on keeping the aquascaping the same as I am very pleased wtih how that has turned out.

Refugium:
I currently run a 24" HOB refugium with a 24 watt 10K PC lamp with a 3" sandbed and chaetomorpha macro. I'll be getting rid of the bioballs in my wet/dry to make room for the new skimmer. Since I can now use the wet/dry as a conventional sump, I will use the first chamber as my fuge. I will not use a sandbed, but I will use LR rubble and chaeto as a means of nutrient export. The water will enter the sump in the first chamber, where I'll have the fuge portion partitioned off with eggcrate, then it will pass into the second chamber (former bioball media compartment) for the skimmer, and finally into the return pump area. Unfortunately, I can't change this design, but I'm optimistic it will work. I will use my 24 watt PC lamp over the chaeto area.

Additional Circulation:
At the moment, I have approximately 1200-1400 gph of flow through my system (20-25x tank volume turnover rate). I need to increase this in order to keep SPS. I agonized a lot over this part of the upgrade. I was all set to go with a closed-loop with the Sequence ReefFlo Dart (3600 gph, minus some head loss) and having the new tank drilled to feed the Sequence pump. I called all around town, and either the glass shop wasn't willing to drill the tank, or they wouldn't guarantee that they wouldn't break it. I just don't feel comfortable taking the risk of getting a broken tank and being out the money. And there's no way I'm comfortable drilling it myself. I could have gone with an over-the-rim design, but my tank is only 12" wide, so the additional PVC pipe in the tank would have defeated the purpose of removing the powerheads.

So, I decided to go with powerheads in the tank. I seriously considered the Tunze (I promise Nuhtty, I did!), but I would only need one for a 55, and with either the wave controller model, or the straight powerhead model (no wave control), I was worried that I wouldn't be able to get random currents with only 1 Tunze and the return from my sump (which is only 600 gph). Two Tunze on a controller would give nice random flow, but I couldn't justify their expense on a 55 gallon tank, and I don't want to turn my tank into a jacuzzi.

Thus, I decided to go with two Seio820s, mounted for side discharge. I'm planning on each Seio being in the back corner, angled at 45 degrees. The return pump will be on the back wall in the middle facing straight towards the front glass. I'm hoping the currents will intermingle and give some nice random flow. I may also mount them on the side glass, but I hope I don't have to do that for aesthetic reasons. I realize Seios aren't ideal, but for this size tank and the flow rate I desire, I think this is the best solution. One benefit is their low power consumption--36 watts for two pumps, while the Sequence uses 160. I know they're manufactured by Tamm, but I haven't read any reports of Seios frying out and nuking a tank like the older-model Rio pumps. I've ordered two from Marine Depot. My total flow rate will now be 2240 gph with a tank turnover rate of 40.7x.

Phosphate Control and Carbon:
In addition to only using ro/di water that I monitor myself for quality (and hopefully avoiding any hazing of the glass), I will also run a PhosBan reactor made by TwoLittleFishies. I also plan to use this as a carbon reactor. I've been told that you can run carbon and PhosBan together. I currently run carbon passively in a pantyhose bag in the return chamber of my sump, but I want something that will force the water through the carbon, thereby increasing its efficiency. I will use a minijet dialed down to about 80-90 gph as anything higher can turn the PhosBan into dust. I've ordered the PhosBan reactor, feed pump, and PhosBan last night from Marine Depot.

Calcium
Maybe I'll run a Ca reactor in the future, but for the present time, I'll be using the B-ionic two-part solution. If I find that the two-part solution is too expensive, then I might use kalk to top off the sump. I'm going to see how this works out, and then decide what method is best for Ca maintenance. I currently don't have many Ca needs, but I expect that to dramatically increase, along with my electric bill. Sad

Overheating
I keep my current tank at 78-79 degrees. I accidently left my MH on for 7 hours, and my tank temps did not increase. I have a fan installed that is blowing air lenghtwise across the MH bulbs. I am concerned about what the Seios and skimmer pump will do to my tank temps. I will keep a close eye on that, and will install a fan in the sump and another fan in the canopy if the need arises. If my temp rises to 82-83 degrees, then I will set my heater (Visitherm) to that temperature.

Top-Off
I currently don't have any plans to add any sort of automatic top-off system. I live in an apartment, so making any sort of permanent modification (running waterlines, etc.) isn't possible. My tank is in my living room, and I don't really like the idea of having a water storage tank sitting next to my display. Plus, I honestly don't have room for it without making my carefully-planned living room look overcrowded and tacky. Smile If daily top-off gets to be too big of a chore, I will figure something out.

Stocking:
A. Fish: I currently have four fish in my 55: a sixline wrasse, an ornate wrasse, a female gold-banded marroon clown, and a blue tang (don't worry, he hasn't turned into a bonsai tang yet, I'll trade him in before that happens). I plan on keeping this fish in my new system as I'm rather attached to them. I was going to get rid of the ornate wrasse, but I'm loving how the MH makes him flouresce. I have a whole new appreciation for this fish, despite his habit of burying himself in the substrate every night. I figure this habit will help keep my new sandbed overturned.

B. Inverts: I currently have blue-legged hermits, some astrea and turbo snails, and a tiger-tail cucumber that is no longer MIA. I will transfer all of these guys into my tank as well, and I will replenish their numbers as they seem to have dramatically decreased as of late. (I suspected a mantis, so all LR will get a freshwater bath to flush out any potential mantis before going into the new tank.)

C. Corals: My tank is a softy/leather tank with a couple of LPS corals. My softies have all grown huge, so I will be trading them in at the LFS for store credit, which I'll then use to get SPS colonies and frags, and maybe a couple of more LPS to keep down low in the shady areas. I hope to be able to add a few larger SPS colonies and then many frags to grow out. I want lots of color baby! Wink I also have many shrooms, and they will be saying "au-revoir" as well. Fortunately, 90% of the shrooms are on my substrate and can be easily removed. I would like to replace these guys with some ricordia till fill in the gaps. I just got two new clams, a crocea and a baby gigas, and they will be moving to the new headquarters as well.




Thanks to all you monkeys who've taken the time to give me feedback in my previous threads, I really am grateful. I've learned a lot from y'all! SPS is a whole new ballgame for me, and I'm looking forward to the challenge. A special shout out to Terry (aka GettingFiesty) who's listened to me ramble on and on about every possible configuration and giving me her feedback. You rock, girl! Happy
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Last edited by Gawain1974 on Thu Feb 09, 2006 3:28 am
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MinibowMatt
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds great Les. I think it will make a good setup. What's your return pump?
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, sorry for the first long post....now comes some more random questions. I really do hope I'm not taxing your patience.

#1: Painting the Back Glass
What's the best type of paint to use on the back glass? I'd prefer to use one of those foam brushes if at all possible. I can't really spraypaint because I live in an apartment, and I have no place to take the tank outside. I am planning on also repainting the stand to freshen it up a bit. Can I use the same flat black paint on the glass as I would the wood stand?

#2: Sand Grain Size
Is sugar-grain size Carib-Sea sand ok to use? I'd like to have a mix of sand sizes, but I can't seem to find any locally, just the sugar grain. I don't want it to clump up and turn into lumps of cement. I'm hoping a good clean-up crew, along with my cuke and sand-hiding wrasse will help keep the sandbed turned over. Also, I will be transplanting all the critters I pull out of my current substrate. Is there something else I should add to my clean-up crew other than blue-legged hermits, snails, and a cuke? Is a sugar-size grain too small with this much flow? I don't want the sand to constantly blow around.

#3: Cycle
Should I expect any sort of cycle? I'm using the LR that I've had in my system since 2001. Since I'm swapping out tanks, I don't want to leave the fish and corals that I'm keeping in a bucket for too long.

#4: Seio/Return Placement
Does my plan of having a Seio in each corner at a 45 degree angle with my return in the middle of the back wall facing straight at the front glass seem like a good idea? I think I'd would get a good intersecting of currents, but is pointing the outlets at the glass a bad idea in general with this much flow? I don't want to have a constant sandstorm and have the bottom of my tank look like the Oklahoma DustBowl.

#5: Carbon/Phosphate
I've remember Kip saying one night in that it's probably best to only run 1-2 tablespoons of PhosBan at a time. Is it really ok to run carbon and PhosBan together? I'd replace the carbon every two weeks, so I know I'd probably waste a lot of PhosBan, but only using 1-2 tablespoons wouldn't make it that big of a waste. Or, if I can't run PhosBan and carbon together, is it okay to run carbon for three weeks, then Phosban for one week, or vice-versa?

#6: Fish
Are the four fish I have listed above (sixline wrasse, ornate wrasse, female gold-banded marroon, and a blue tang) overstocking my tank too much for SPS? I'd be willing to get rid of one, with the tang being the absolute last resort (he's the reason I ever got into this hobby).




Thanks again for all of your help! Please feel free to give me feedback on something I may have overlooked as well. I want to do this right the first time.
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Matt, I've been building up to this transition for quite some time. I always used my PC lights as an excuse to not do it, but once half the fixture fried, I had an excuse to upgrade the lighting. And well, once you upgrade the lighting, why not the skimmer, change the substrate...oh hell, let's get a nice clear tank too. Laugh

Don't laugh, my return pump is a Capp2200. It came with my wet/dry. I've heard that they're crappy pumps, but I'm quite pleased with mine. It's very quiet, doesn't cause any overheating issues (my tank temp never did increase when I installed it), and I get a good rate of flow through it at 4' head (600 gph). It's a submersible pump as well.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les, too bad you don't live alot closer. Paul has 2 55 gal. tanks and stands he's all but giving away. Ryan just picked up a 55 that one of his neighbors has put out for the trash too. I told him we should start a used aquaruim business because betewwn 4 or 4 of us there are about 50 tanks.

Sounds like you're gonna need a second job to pay for equipment eh? Have fun!
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, no kidding! I just ordered a refractometer. I just need to pick up the new tank and sand this weekend, and I'm all done. I'm hoping the trade-in of my softies will help fund some new stonies.
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Last edited by Gawain1974 on Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:12 am
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gawain1974 wrote:


#1: Painting the Back Glass
What's the best type of paint to use on the back glass? I'd prefer to use one of those foam brushes if at all possible. I can't really spraypaint because I live in an apartment, and I have no place to take the tank outside. I am planning on also repainting the stand to freshen it up a bit. Can I use the same flat black paint on the glass as I would the wood stand?


I used an oil based flat black enamel. Foam is the way to go because of the smooth surface. They make foam rollers...I would suggest getting a couple and just tossing them after each coat. I did 2 coats on my 65 and wish I had done 3 or 4. Not sure if its my painting ability but I ended up with a few "scratches" of clear area. Also, make sure to touch up around the bulkheads after screwing them in. Be very careful painting around the empty holes so you don't splash paint onto the front glass...although it scrapes off easily even when dry.

Gawain1974 wrote:


#2: Sand Grain Size
Is sugar-grain size Carib-Sea sand ok to use? I'd like to have a mix of sand sizes, but I can't seem to find any locally, just the sugar grain. I don't want it to clump up and turn into lumps of cement. I'm hoping a good clean-up crew, along with my cuke and sand-hiding wrasse will help keep the sandbed turned over. Also, I will be transplanting all the critters I pull out of my current substrate. Is there something else I should add to my clean-up crew other than blue-legged hermits, snails, and a cuke? Is a sugar-size grain too small with this much flow? I don't want the sand to constantly blow around.


Personally I like the sugar grain size but with high flow I would go a bit bigger. CaribSea makes a nice product. And IME it does have a tendency to clump, not to mention sandstorms before the sandbed gets established.

Gawain1974 wrote:

#3: Cycle
Should I expect any sort of cycle? I'm using the LR that I've had in my system since 2001. Since I'm swapping out tanks, I don't want to leave the fish and corals that I'm keeping in a bucket for too long.


You may have some sort of cycle with the disturbance of the sandbed but I dont think it will be too much of a problem.

Gawain1974 wrote:

#4: Seio/Return Placement
Does my plan of having a Seio in each corner at a 45 degree angle with my return in the middle of the back wall facing straight at the front glass seem like a good idea? I think I'd would get a good intersecting of currents, but is pointing the outlets at the glass a bad idea in general with this much flow? I don't want to have a constant sandstorm and have the bottom of my tank look like the Oklahoma DustBowl.


I like your flow idea. I would suggest the Magnet Modification with the Seios. These pumps have a large flat surface that lend themselves nicely to mounting to 4" TopFin cleaning magnets. They can be easily moved around this way.

Gawain1974 wrote:


#5: Carbon/Phosphate
I've remember Kip saying one night in that it's probably best to only run 1-2 tablespoons of PhosBan at a time. Is it really ok to run carbon and PhosBan together? I'd replace the carbon every two weeks, so I know I'd probably waste a lot of PhosBan, but only using 1-2 tablespoons wouldn't make it that big of a waste. Or, if I can't run PhosBan and carbon together, is it okay to run carbon for three weeks, then Phosban for one week, or vice-versa?


Not sure, sorry.

Gawain1974 wrote:


#6: Fish
Are the four fish I have listed above (sixline wrasse, ornate wrasse, female gold-banded marroon, and a blue tang) overstocking my tank too much for SPS? I'd be willing to get rid of one, with the tang being the absolute last resort (he's the reason I ever got into this hobby).


Well, the Tang Police would have a field day. I think you are heavily stocked but you can probably pull it off. IMO the maroon would be the fish to go (since you are set on the tang). Get big and messy and mean.[/quote]



This is a fantastic write up! I am looking forward to seeing it all come together. I wish I lived closer cuz I would drive up there and help out.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow alot of thinking went into this. You shouldnt have that big of a problem drilling throught the glass if you have a diamond tipped circular bit and ran water across the glass as you make the cut. But dont put soo many holes that it turns into swiss cheese.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les, its looking like a great plan. Have you thought about maybe dripping Kalk near your skimmer intake and passing on the phosban? I drip over and above my intake a few inches and have never detected any phosphates. I was thinking you might kill two birds at once like this, Ca demand and PO4 removal, it works good for me.

For your clean up crew, Im really partial to my fighting conch, great to stir the sand with and never been a problem. Also I think a small serpent star would be benificial, although mines gotten to large for comfort about 16'' Confused
Sounds like a lot of fun to plan out.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's too late - and I'm too buzzed to absorb and respond... But I did want to say that it looks like you really did your homework on this one...

I still think that the seios are a bad idea - and would highly reccomend a closed loop... Hell getting a new tank drilled isn't too expensive...
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's the problem James, no one here wants to do it. I found one place that said they'd do it, but they've one done one other tank and they broke it, so they won't gaurantee that they won't crack the glass.

Teco, I didn't know that dripping kalk would affect phosphate, I thought they were two different issues. Hmmm...more food for thought. I'm looking at Ca reactors....damn, they're expensive!

From my understanding you need the Ca reactor unit (with bubble counter, etc.), a CO2 tank, then a CO2 regulator with a cellunoid, etc. Do you also need a Ph meter too?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 4:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To tell you the truth Im not really up on reactors and have been getting by dripping kalk. I mix 5 gal and drip over the course of 5-7 days, it really helps stabilize ph. I think with any Ca supplimentation you cant go wrong with a PH monitor, I have a Pinpoint and love it. It makes life so easy to just check ph at a glance.
For the PO4 issue, I believe it works because the Ca ions in a Kalk solution attract and bond with the PO4 in the skimmer enviroment and are expelled with the skimmate. If someone can explain the chemistry better please do. Ive never had a PO4 positive test so it couldnt hurt, your skimmer pump might just need an xtra cleaning every now and then. If you have alot of stonys then your demand may be higher than a drip could supply I suppose, but between using Oceanic salt and the drip I seem to have more than I need, but of course Im not caring for stonys yet Sad .
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NUHTTY wrote:
This is a fantastic write up! I am looking forward to seeing it all come together. I wish I lived closer cuz I would drive up there and help out.


Thanks, Nuhtty, Bring some buckets with you. Wink

Ok, Teco, I'll have to look into this some more. Still not sure where I would put a container to drip the kalk...hmmm....thinking now.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 8:59 am    Post subject: Automatic Top-Off System Reply with quote

Well, the truth is, I'm a lazy slag when it comes to topping off my sump...I wait for my pump to start sucking in air, then I know it's time to add a couple of gallons. My skimmer is currently in another chamber, and that level stays constant. With what I'm planning now, I'm going to want to keep the levels more stable.

I did some reading and looking around, and I've come up with two options. Of course, I'm drawn to the more expensive option (damnit). Wtih the amount of clearance behind my tank, I could easily fit one of those gray 6 gallon drinking water containers that you can get at WalMart, or possibly a smaller RubberMaid rectangular trash can with a lid.

And, I'm thinking that I could just add some kalkwasser to my storage container, and voilą, I'm adding Ca to my system as well.

Option #1: Float Switch

The UltraLife float switch is reasonably priced ($59), and would require the use of a MaxiJet (400 or 600) to move the water from a resevoir tank. The problem is, I've read countless horror stories of float switches sticking and causing floods. Hmmm...I don't like the sound of that since my stand is from PetSmart, so it's probably just cardboard. Wet cardboard + 600 lb tank = not good.

Here's the link to the Ultra Life: UltraLife Float Switch

Option #2: Aqua Medic Dosing Pump/Top-Off System

This unit costs more ($137), so it would be roughly double the price of the UltraLife and maxijet. Its float switch is different, and less likely to stick on or off. It uses a vacuum pipe which senses a change in vacuum when the water level drops. The only drawback is that the sump level has to drop a 1/2" in general before it'll kick on. Still, that's a lot less than what it does currently before I top it off.

Here's a link to the Aqua Medic: Aqua Medic



So, which one would you choose? Each one has it's benefits and drawbacks. The UltraLife is cheaper, and will start to top-off when the water level only drops 1/8-1/2". However, a sticking floatswitch would cause way too much damage The Aquamedic would eliminate the flooding concerns, but it costs twice as much. I could also go with a system that uses a double float valve (they cost $90 + pump).
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the double float switch idea myself, I think Supperdodge was the one that had that in a thread somewhere. Looked like a pretty safe setup. Id be interested to hear what others have done here also.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got home with my tank. It looks pretty awesome, I'm very happy with it. They used black silicone on the corners, and I think I like the way that looks. I was actually thinking of using Ryan's idea of wood trim on the corner of the glass to make it look more built in. I'll take some pics of it before and after I paint it. I'll be sure to clean the back off with alcohol.

I also went to Menards and got disposable foam brushes and a can of paint. They recommended I use rustoleum for the back, and said I could also use it to repaint my stand. Let me know if you think that's a bad idea. If it doesn't work out on the glass, I can always peel it off with a scraper.

I also went around to a few stores looking for some type of container to fit behind my tank. No luck. It seems as if I'll have to use the gray drinking water storage container that holds 6 gallons (more like 6.5). The only problem is that there's no way I can fit a small pump down inside, so I might not have any choice than to use the Aqua Medic pump as it draws water out of the container and there is no pump that needs to go inside.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Les, this is from Kip's site and a discussion on dripping Kalk.....

There is also some good result in dripping kalk into the intake of a protein skimmer. Hydroxide is formed when you add Calcium hydroxide or Calcium oxide (Kalk powder) to fresh water. This is your final kalkwasser mix. Hydroxide ions (OH-) and Phosphate (PO4) are weakly attracted to each other and will stick to microbubbles along with the other dissolved organic compounds in a skimmer. If you don't drip the limewater directly into the skimmer then the Hydroxide Ions have time to combine with Carbon dioxide to form Carbonate. So, if you drip limewater directly into the skimmer some of the Phosphate will end up in the collection cup. If you drip 24/7 then eventually most of the Phosphate will be removed.

The full discussion can be found here and its a good read...enjoy

http://www.kipsreef.com/info.htm
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Gawain1974
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Joined: 27 May 2005
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Location: Madison, WI

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2006 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Teco, that's awesome. If I understand correctly, to get the hydroxide to bond with the PO4, it has to get dripped into the skimmer 24/7. If you don't drip into the skimmer, then you u just get carbonate....is the calcium carbonate? Don't you want calcium carbonate? Sorry, I just haven't had a chemistry class since high school. Laugh
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tecofish
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Joined: 04 Jan 2006
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Location: Alaska

PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laugh Believe me Im no chemist either. Yep, it looks like you might have to drip into the skimmer, but I have dripped right by the skimmer intake, probably not as good, but I do drip 24-7 so I dont know. I suppose maybe Im really not making a big difference but since Ive never showed any PO4 that it could definanitly still be helping some.
I think that as you drip the kalk/hydroxide, there wont ever be enough phosphates to use it all up, especially being a weak attraction to each other. I would imagine that almost all of the hydroxide will combine with CO2 in your water quickly after it leaves the skimmer, or even in the skimmer. This will create the calcium carbonate your corals need for growth. My guess is that the amount used for PO4 removal would be so small as to not matter.
Its a pretty cool thing. Smile
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My inbox was flooded with emails with all the goodies that have been shipped.
Here's what I'm receiving:

ASM-G2 Skimmer: with recirculating modification, feed pump, and and gate valve mod.

Refractometer: Shhh, I know, I should have had one of these already! I'm curious to see how far my swing arm is off.

Phosban Reactor: with minijet feed pump, and phosban. I will also use this as a carbon reactor

2 Seios 820 Superflow Pumps: I will mount these like Tunze streams.

AquaMedic Top-Off System: This will include a dosing pump, vacuum float switch, and appropriate tubing.

Milwaukee pH tester pen: Hasn't shipped yet, but it should soon.

I can't wait to get all this stuff here, I feel like a little kid at Christmas. I don't even want to think about the money I spent, but I've been saving up for a long time, and I want to do it right this time (well, as "right" as I can afford). Smile
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gettingfeisty
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For what it's worth, I don't drip into my skimmer.
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've just finished painting the back wall of the tank glass with one coat of Rustoleum flat black enamel. I took Nuhtty's advice and I'm using those disposable foam brushes. Each coat will get a new brush. How many coats will I need? I put on a rather thick first coat, but I'm guessing it will take at least three.

The paint says to wait 24 hours in between coats. But it dries to touch in a couple of hours. Can I add a new coat every few hours, or should I wait 24?
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TimmyG
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you take plenty of pics Less Smile
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Gawain1974
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Speaking of pics....

Here's the tank:



And here it is with just one coat.


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TimmyG
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you planning on drilling it?
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